DENIM Glossary from different sources.

The Essential Denim Glossary

We won't waste your time listing terms like "buttons" or "coin pockets," but we will help shed some light on the terms denim heads love tossing around.

Back Cinch (aka Buckle Back)

A buckle used to tighten the waistband on denim, before belts (and belt loops) were commonplace. A renewed interest in vintage styles have ushered in a resurgence of the the cinches on modern jeans.

Abrasion

The physical process of making jeans look worn or faded by scraping, sanding and rubbing the surface—thus causing abrasion. Pumice stones are often used commercially.

Anti-Twist (aka Skewing)

A finishing technique that corrects denim's natural tendency to twist in the direction of the diagonal weave of the fabric. This occurs before sanforization. 

Bartack

Stitching sewn into stress points on jeans to reinforce places like zippers and pocket openings.

Broken Twill

The diagonal weave of the twill cloth is intentionally interrupted to form a random design.

Bull Denim

A heavyweight cloth weave, weighing in at 14oz./sq yard or more.

Caste

A term used to describe the underlying coloring of a cloth. Depending on the dyes and washing, indigo denim can have a black, brown, gray, green, red, or yellow caste to it.

Chain Stitching

A sewing procedure that uses loop-like stitches which form a chain pattern. Pulling the fabric at slightly different tensions on either side, it produces a distinctive, twisted roping pattern at the hem.

Cone Mills

One of the world's largest denim manufacturers, Cone Mills began producing denim in 1895 at their plant in Greensboro, North Carolina.

Crock

A item used to describe how the dark denim dye rubs off or bleeds onto skin or other fabrics.

Enzyme Wash

A more environmentally conscious way of softening jeans. Organic proteins are used to speed up the chemical processes and eat away at the indigo. The finished jeans tend be stronger than those treated with with pumice stones and harsher chemicals.

Garment Dyed

Dyeing a finished garment, instead of dyeing the yarn before it's woven.

Indigo

The dye used to color denim, it was initially taken from the indigofera tinctoria plant, but was later synthesized in the early 20th century. Indigo continually fades because of its inability to penetrate fibers completely.

Left-Weave

Fabric woven to the left. This is a more intricate process that produces a suppler product than right-hand twill.

Mercerized

An industrial process to increase luster as well as keeping dye on the surface of the fabric so that dyes do not fully penetrate the fibre.

Raw (aka Dry)

Denim that has not been rinsed or prewashed and thus is more rigid, stiff and durable than pre-aged or chemically softened jeans.

Ring Spun

Woven on older looms, this denim is more rugged and is a less refined than modern jeans. This yarn adds character to the denim because of the tiny knots, or "slubs," running randomly throughout the yarn.

Rivet

A small metal tab used to reinforce stress points. While it prevents the fabric from tearing, it's also used for non-functional ornamentation.

Rope Dying

Thought to be the best way to dye yarn. Cotton threads are twisted into a rope and then dipped into an indigo bath several times—the more dips, the darker the yarn.

Sanforized

A process that prevents shrinking by stretching and manipulating the raw denim fabric before it's washed. Developed in the 1920s by the Sanforize Co. and patented in 1928.

Selvedge (aka Selvage, Red Line)

Originally called 'self-edge', the selvage is a slim woven band on either edge of the denim fabric. This prevents the edge of the denim from unravelling. Mills used various colors to distinguish manufactures. Vintage Levi's jeans had a single red stripe along both selvages, Lee's was blue or green and Wrangler's was yellow.

Whiskering

The horizontal creases and fading in the crotch, back of knees and hems caused naturally from wear (or artificially by designers).

Yoke (aka Riser)

The V-shaped section on the back of a pair of jeans, which gives curve to the seat.

Denim basics part two: Denim terminology

Here is a basic list of terms you should know if you’re interested in denim. Take note that this isn't a comprehensive list, but it should be enough to help you get a decent pair of jeans.
Acid Washing
Soak pumice stones in bleach and tumble them with denim. Avoid this.

Avoid acid washed jeans like this.

 Arcuate stitching
A thread pattern stitched on the back pockets.

Some people don't like this, you can remove it if you don't.

Boot cut
Jeans with a flare towards the bottom so they will fit over boots. Avoid these unless you’re actually wearing boots; I don’t suggest wearing them even then.
Chain stitching
An alternate kind of stitching that makes the stitches have a rope look to them.
Honeycomb
Folds in the jeans behind your knees. If you’re wearing raw denim, you’ll get some nice wear in this area.
Indigo
The traditional dye used in jeans that produces that familiar blue color. Indigo dye was originally created by using various sorts of plants, but synthetic lab-made indigo dye is commonly used now.
Pre-distressed
Jeans that are pre-distressed have fake wear (and sometimes tear) on them to give them a worn look before they even reach the store. You wear jeans in different ways and pre-distressed jeans will not always match the way you move, resulting in an odd look.
Raw/rigid denim
Denim that has not been through any sort of wash. Raw denim will fade in interesting, unique ways depending on how you wear them. NEVER, I repeat, NEVER put raw denim in the washer and dryer.
Rivets
Copper tabs used to hold denim together.

Yeah, those help hold your jeans together.

Sand blasting
Jeans that have literally had sand sprayed on them at fast speeds to produce wear on the jeans.
Sanforizing
A process to prevent denim from shrinking. Sanforized jeans will typically shrink around 1-5% when washed. Non-sanforized jeans will shrink 7-10%. This usually only applies to raw denim, so before you buy a pair of raw denim jeans in your size check to see if they are Sanforized or not.
Selvedge
Denim that was made on an old-style loom instead of mass produced. Selvedge jeans have a different seam from normal jeans which is visible if you cuff your jeans.

This is the only way you can tell the difference. The seams are much stronger though.

Straight cut
Jeans that are almost perfectly straight from the knee down.
Tappering
This means the jeans slowly get closer to your leg going down.
Wash
The amount of dye in a pair of jeans. Lighter washes have less dye while darker washes obviously have more dye.
Whiskers
Whiskers are the creases that form on your lap. They will look good if you produce this wear yourself; this will take quite a while though.

Jeans --- a little history.

What is a jeans? Jeans are pants or trousers conventionally made from fabric, called denim, but may also be made from a large variety of fabrics particularly including corduroy. Originally intended for work, they became popular among teenagers starting in the 50s. Historic brands include Wrangler, Jordache, and Levi's. Nowadays jeans are a very popular style of casual dress all around the world and come in many varieties and colours.

The Indian export of a thick cotton cloth, in the 16th century, known as dungaree, is widely regarded as the earliest known precursor to jeans. Dyed in indigo, it was sold near the Dongarii Fort near Bombay. Sailors cut it to suit them.

Denim fabric, the material to make jeans, was made in an Italian town, Chieri, already in 1600s. It was sold through Genova, that was the capital of an independent republic, and a naval power. The first were made for the Genoese Navy because it required all-purpose pants for its sailors that could be worn wet or dry, and whose legs could easily be rolled up to wear while swabbing the deck. These jeans would be laundered by dragging them in large mesh nets behind the ship, and the sea water would bleach them white. According to many people the jeans name comes from blue de Genes, i.e. blue of Genoa. The raw material was coming from the city of Nîmes de Nîmes i.e. denim.

Washing Effects

Washing is the most important feature of jeans wears. Most of the terminology of washing techniques are only known to the professionals of denim traders and manufacturers. For start-up fashion entrepreneurs and anyone who is new to denim world, it is utmost important to get familiariezd with all the jargons. The washing terms can be classified as follows:

* Colours

* Simple wash / Enzyme wash

* Stone / Sand wash

* Handbrush

* Bleech

* Over-dye

Reference guide for DIESEL washing and back-pocket designs.

* Vintage / Monkey / Monk

There are many special techniques used during washing process, which are explained in the section Trim and Techniques

Trims & Techniques

Trims and techniques are the most important feature of jeans wears. Most of the terminology of washing techniques are only known to the professionals of denim traders and manufacturers. For start-up fashion entrepreneurs and anyone who is new to denim world, it is utmost important to get familiariezd with all the jargons. The trims and techniques terms can be classified as follows:

* Crinkles / Wrinkles

* Rip / Destroy

* Hand-stitch

* Hand brush

* Over-dye 

* Vintage / Monkey / Monk \

* Needle-works

* Embroidery / Appliqué

* Print / Paint

* Diamond / Bead / Bling Bling

Pocket Designs

Pocket design is an important part of jeans /denim styling, which is also used as one of the features to distinguish the designs from each other.

* Front pocket

* Back pocket: 

* Coin pocket

* Flap

* Fake pocket

Design Galleries

We collected more than 2000 pictures and photos of jeans and denim designes from various sources, and we keep adding more. There are pictures of designer jeans, close-up denim details, fashion shows and window shows.